I view life as an endless series of dichotomous choices… everything is a question of balance, with pros and cons to every decision. There is no right answer, but my general philosopy is to maximize happiness.
I grew up in Seattle, in the northwestern corner of the US. This was lucky, because while the Cascades are not as grand as the Alps, Index is not as big as Yosemite, and Mt. Baker is not as good as Revelstoke, there is an abundance of pretty good rock climbing, alpine climbing, and skiing close to the city. I was also lucky that my family started taking me to the mountains when I was very young. I've been skiing and scrambling in the mountains since before I can remember.
I didn't start learning to rock climb until I was 14 years old, and never had access to a climbing gym, but I learned how to use an ice axe at 10 years, and had my first pair of ski mountaineering bindings at 13. According to government documents, I have lived in Seattle all my life, but for the past decade I have spent far more time away from Seattle than in Seattle.
My primary "homes" in the past decade have been El Chaltén (Patagonia, Argentina), Squamish (BC, Canada), and Chamonix (France). My greatest accomplishments have been in the mountains of Patagonia and Alaska, although I feel that it is perhaps time to move on and focus my energy more on the mountains of Asia...
HighlightsTorre Traverse (Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger, Cerro Torre), first ascent (2008), first one-day ascent (2016), and first reverse traverse (2015).
Torre Egger, first solo ascent (2016).
Infinite Spur (Sultana, Alaska), first solo ascent and speed record (2016).
North Buttress (Begguya, Alaska), first solo ascent and speed record (2017).
Aguja Standhardt, first solo ascent (2010).
Wafe-Effect Direct (Aguja Desmochada, Aguja de la Silla, Chaltén), first one-day ascent, first all-free ascent (2016).
The Entropy Wall (Mt. Moffit, Alaska), first ascent (2006).
Dracula (Sultana, Alaska), first ascent (2010).
Mt. Waddington, Mt. Combatant, Mt. Tieddmann, Mt. Asperity (BC, Canada), first solo ascent of each (2012).
Cassin Ridge (Denali, Alaska), speed record (2018).