Hanspeter Eisendle

If I look toward the past, but also toward what is coming in the future, the main motivation for my activities in the mountains is the feeling of the exposure.

Hanspeter Eisendle was born on November 8, 1956 in Sterzing. Alpine Guide since 1980. In 1982 he took part to an expedition of Reinhold Messner, with the goal of making the first winter ascent of an 8000-meter peak (Cho Oyu, 8200 m), climbing thorough the dangerous south face. After that experience he decided to make his living as a full-time alpine guide. He repeated all the most important Dolomites routes (around 1000), some itineraries in the Western Alps (Peuterey Arête on Mt. Blanc, East Face of Monte Rosa, Brenva on Mt. Blanc) and made 26 new ascents on rock and ice.

After an unsuccessful expedition to Dhaulagiri (8167 m) Eisendle concentrates himself even more on rock climbing, a discipline searching for new horizons exactly in that period. In sport climbing he successfully redpoints routes till the 10° grade and he reaches the 8°+ on adventure/alpine routes (without bolts). He has also climbed big walls all over the world, from Yosemite to Patagonia.

Now and then, as alpine guide, he organizes trips (not expeditions) for very small groups to the Himalaya, with the goal of climbing easier peaks up to 6000 m.

He was recently also very interested in solo ascents of big routes on mixed terrain (rock/ice) in winter and of course he has been practicing ski mountaineering throughout his career (about 100 to 200 outings every winter). In 2000 he took part in an expedition to Nanga Parbat (8125 m), invited by Reinhold Messner, where they managed to climb for the first time through the Diama face, although without reaching the main summit. This trip, like the one to Oman in 2002, is an expression of his passion for classical “old fashioned” and “by fair means” mountaineering, where the experience to expose oneself to the dangers of the mountain is definitely more important than the performance.

"If I look toward the past, but also toward what is coming in the future, the main motivation for my activities in the mountains is the feeling of the exposure. To experience this feeling I don’t need a certain grade of difficulty and no hit-list mountains. It’s much more about the questions that each mountain and each route ask me, and the answers that my body and my spirit try to find. In this conflict zone I experience an anarchic dimension, which would probably become stunted in the set of rules of the urban life. Among other things the experiences, which I collect in this way, are vital for my job, the alpine guide."


Highlights
  • Doping (8b) in Valle S.Nicolò
  • Menhir (8b) sulle Torri di Meisules
  • Pirzigogl (8b) a Castelpietra
  • Muro giallo“ Glowacz-Albert, on sight, (9-) Tre Cime Lavaredo
  • Telefono azzurro, on sight, Cinque Torri (9+)
  • Vogelfrei  (9-), rotpunkt come guida con cliente, Torri di Meisules
  • Via attraverso il pesce (8+), rotpunkt come guida con cliente, Marmolada sud
  • Il canto del cigno“ (8+), rotpunkt come guida con cliente, Piramide Armani
  • Hasse-Brandler“ (8+), rotpunkt come guida con cliente, Cima Grande di Lavaredo
  • El Capitan (1986 Nose 11 ore nonstop)
  • Concatenamento parete nord del Ortles con la parete nord della Cima Grande di Lavaredo (Via Comici) entro 24 ore - trasferimento in bicicletta.
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