Luca Andreozzi

"I am a dreamer, and by climbing I can make my dreams come true"

Hollywood 7c+ (Isola d'Elba) Il Cuore non basta 8a+ Achille 8a+ (Monte Amiata) progetto Valli di Lanzo

I started climbing in '97, in February to be precise. I was about 6 years. Although my father was a former climber (just before I was born he was given to paragliding), it was coming right to me, that ever since I was able to articulate the first speeches of sense continually I expressed this desire, to try climbing. Eventually, taken from exhaustion, that February day my father took me on the rock, like me unaware of what that feeling was incredible that climbing would change my life in a moment I found the greatest game of all.

I was perhaps too soon labeled as "child prodigy", as it was still almost impossible in those years to see kids with shoes and harness so ravenous rock, ready to climb that and this way as there was no tomorrow, and soon after getting off by yet another climb, get back silent playing with Johnny Quest, or with the Action Man on duty. Especially in Tuscany. Soon, however, the climb would have reserved the surprise of a world of children like me, who climbed and enjoyed themselves in structures tailored for them. That world was that Italian Cup youth allowed me quickly to expand my horizons totally, beginning a journey of countries, people, stories, rocky, views that accompanied me from the first steps in racing, the first titles Italian Champion, until the European Cup under 16, where I managed to score a couple of 6th places.

Although the climb had given me so much, as well as rock climbing, to the age of 16 I felt the need to break away from all that world. Perhaps the relationship that I had ever had with this sport had become so intimate, so special, that a part of me felt completely sucked, trampled. The races did not give me more than a good feeling, and soon the rock would have started to go off in my hands. The climb had taken all my living space, and I needed to breathe clean air, to be a "myself" to the boy's prodigy, by the promise, by the talent. Infuse I was still a 16 year old boy who just could not pass the math test.

One morning four years later, climbing woke me up suddenly. Suddenly, I had an urgent desire to put those shoes, those who had abandoned somewhere in the garage. Despite my many questions I did not hesitate to pose again the fingertips on the rock, realizing at the time what that feeling I had missed. The "Luchino" climber was still a part of me, a part that had given me so much and that now, prancing and pushed as never to go out, ready to go and take the dreams breaking any obstacle.

In this case, the biggest obstacle was the distance, the one that separated me from Bside of Turin, where suddenly the needle of my compass, inexplicably, had taken a bet. Time to pack, and there I was to wear the shirt of Bside Team Plus, struggling to recover the space that I had abandoned, with a new, strong, wonderful passion, ever so strongly that I felt burning inside me. Just like in that February of '97, I could not be aware of how that train would once again reshuffled the cards on the table giving me a "second life".

After returning to Tuscany, a year and a half later, I heard that he had put important pieces in the puzzle: that of the comparison, the rediscovery, and especially that of the desperate courage of those who can not wait a day more distant from their dreams. I had found my balance. The climbing had become for me, an art form. With a new spirit began to rediscover my rocks, near the house, seeing lines that maybe before I had not had the courage to dream, tracing new routes as a painter in front of a new canvas, and this time keeping inside me that joy , that naive spirit of adventure game, with which, in '97, a child fluttered hanging from a rope in the afternoons off from school.


Highlights

LEAD

- Wave 8a – flash (L'Onda. Val D'Aosta)

- Ivan Drago 8a – flash (Villenueve, Val D'Aosta)

- Sirkaty Lessons 8a - onsight (Kalymnoss)

- Les Colonnettes 8a - onsight (Ceuse)

- Juma 8b - 2nd go (Giardino degli Elfi)

- Il Gemone 8b/c (Candalla Bassa)

 

BOULDER

- Icaro 8a (Villarbasse)

- Rainbow Rocket 8a (Fontainebleau)

- Il Cuore non basta 8a+ (Isola d'Elba)

- El Chileno 8a+ (Hulveto Tanks)

- Achille 8a+ (Monte Amiata)

- Tibiaepperone 8b (Huliveto Tanks)

- Welcome to Hell 8b (Huliveto Tanks)

- Un Giovedì da Leoni 8b (Huliveto Tanks)

 

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