Marko Prezelj

In climbing, style is my first concern

I started in the “old school” of alpinism, made many mistakes and soon learned that the pursuit is both complex and immeasurable. Curiosity was the impulse that first brought me to alpinism, and it leads me still. 

In climbing, style is my first concern. The decision-making process is the challenge. Doubt and uncertanity are the essence; trying to balance them with my choices is the passion. No regrets is the rule. When I know the outcome, the game is different and in the end less fun. The experience is different when I encounter humanity in any form, be it tracks, slings, or pitons.

Alpinism tests the limits of my strength, intuition, personality, character, emotion and creative spirit. Every “test” is different. How will I resolve the logistical puzzle of a particular climb? Will I be able to figure out the route, the moves? Will I be able to adapt to the conditions, the weather and above all to the friends with whom I share the experience? Which compromises will I accept, and at what cost? 

It is considered normal to avoid the uncertain, the unexpected and the unknown, but these are the catalysts for human progress and they’re my catalysts as well. At the same time I’m aware of the constant influence of commercial interests. Money and publicity can destroy personal ethics in an instant, justifying the means with the end.

What is success? This is the ultimate question, the answer to which I’m still seeking.


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