Martina Blanchet send Balboa 8c
First repetition of this hard route on Tetto di Sarre (AO)
Martina Blanchet manages to send Balboa, a super hard route, graded 8c at Tetto di Sarre (AO). We asked her to tell us about the climb, and here is the story:
“It was an average Thursday. Or, better to say, the Thursday of a unlucky week. One of those week in which you stop studying only to take a bus to go to B-side (climbing gym in Turin nda), then take the bus again to come back home to go on studying. Only two days to Saturday and the anxiety was growin. I was wondering how it would go the oral test, and if I would arrive in time to Borgo San Dalmazzo for the last TTC stage, I wondered how it would go the race. All on Saturday, all together. Damn! I was so nervous. I missed also Gio’s graduation in order to keep up with studying and trainings.
As every Thursday, the schedule told: training board + routes. No way to come back to Torino to go to Braccini, I would have wasted too many hours. The only thing to do was the Courma’s wall. I had to plead with my brother, who already was planning to go climbing in France, since it was a beautiful sunny day. We found an agreement: Sarre. At least we would stay outside and I would follow the program.
So, I got up early that morning, I studied 3 hours, at lunch time I warm up at the board with some weights then I got into the car, I ate a flat bread quickly at the cafeteria and went straight to the Tetto. Three pitches to warm up with 8 seconds of recovery. I did it I looked again the schedule. 7c+ with rescue of… The sun was shining, but the wind was cool. Balboa was completely dry. I thought I wanted to try it, I didn’t touch it since the previous fall. I was sure I could do much better; I had improved a lot in the last months. “What are you doing now Chou?” 7c+ with rescue of…
I looked at my brother. He was sniggering. He already knew. I already knew.
I looked closely, section after section. The holds looked better and closer one another. Everything seems simpler. All match with amazing easiness. I didn’t say anybody, but I started dreaming.
Once I touched the ground; I took a rest, I laid down at sun, I thought about the passages and tried to concentrate. I started again. I climbed light and precise, but…I fell down at the last movement. Just before the break. What a fool! How could I think to end the route that day, so quickly, so easily?” Don’t you have enough, Marty?” I thought. Weeks would have passed before metabolizing it the best way. What a fool I am. You should have training today, I thought.
It’s difficult to explain what happened next. Difficult to explain it to myself, much harder to explain to other people. They congrats to me, they told me to tell them how it was. I don’t know. I only know that I was really angry and I caught that break.” And there you understood to finish?” No still half route was missing! I was only happy to have done the first part. I had to face another hard part and then a long piece of route.
I rested a long time on those two holds, but I didn’t feel at ease, but at least the breath calm down, as well as the mind. Then I did another passage and a desperate struggle started. The cheering of Max, who was on Criptonite, those of Albi much further encouraged me, until the end, until the Tetto di Sarre. I cried in front of the chain until lungs ached and I had no voice left. My brother let me down, hugged me and picked me up starting to jump.
He put in order the route, created by Massimo Balan and then quitted. He create it, called it Balboa and graded 8c. Thanks to him I send my first 8c!”
We hope this is the first one of a long list…