Michi Wärthl

Michi, born in 1970, lives in the south of Munich with his wife Simone and his two sons Marc and Luca.

At the age of 24 years, he was the youngest mountaineer ever to climb K2 (8611m) without oxygene. Since then he has been travelling around the world as a professional mountaineer and is still considered as one of Germany's best "all-round-alpinists". He has for example experienced Patagonia seven times so far. Among others, he made first ascents such as the "Vogelfrei" at the Schüsselkar South Face (13 Pitches, 8b/8b+). In 2002 he successfully made the fourth ascent of the Gurla Mandata (7694m) as well as the Ama Dablam (6856m). In 2003 he succesfully guided Nanga Parbat (8125m) and he became the first mountainguide to lead a customer through the "Supercanaleta" on the Fitz Roy (3405m). The same year he repeated the route "La vida es silbar" (28 Pitches, 7c+) at the Eiger northface.

2006 he was the first person who onsighted the mega classic mixedclimb "Flying Circus" (4 Pitches M10). Till today he stood on top of five 8000 meter peaks and 2012 he became also the first guide leading a client through the "Ferrari-route" at Cerro Torre. Within the German Alpine Club (DAV), he has been working as a coach for the DAV - programme for young talented alpinists during the last 14 years. Since 2004 he also works as a instructor in the guides education of the german mountain guide federation. He regularly guides difficult alpine classics which are on his agenda throughout the all the year, no matter if rock, mixed or ice.

But what he really likes best is spending holidays with his family - of course to do some climbing, skiing, mountaineering and, during the last few years, some surfing.


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