Story of an highball. Gabriele Moroni
Two incredible days, the perfect conditions and the willing to go further. Moroni tells the ascent of the “29 dots” in Valle dell’Orco.
Gabriele Moroni is on fire! The past weekend he sent the huge and scary "29 dots" by Bernd Zangerl in Valle dell'Orco: a 14 meters highball with the hard section at 7 meters from the ground.
“My story on this majestic piece of rock is rather short – he added - two little but pretty intense days”.
I remember driving next to this huge boulder years ago, on my way to climb some bigger walls in the Valley. When I heard about Bernd Zangerl climbing this thing I was kind of shocked, still not having the idea of highballing.
My first day on it was very hot, a classic summer day, good to check out the moves with a rope and see how it looked like, but not much else.
The second day was completely opposite, cold and windy, perfect for the crimpy style of the climb.
I rappelled down and tried the moves a couple of more times.
When I saw them I felt more comfortable and started thinking about a proper ropeless try.
The full support from the crew and the perfect north wind helped a lot and all of the sudden I found myself at the top of this giant for its second ascent.
About the grade, I think Bernd didn't give a real one, he only said it's probably one of his most remarkable and proud ascents and possibly one of his hardest ones on this style.
My guess, having climbed or put up a good number of hard highballs around the world, is 8A+! The hardest part is the first 6/7meters, but you better not to fall down from the second half, easier but still serious