Sebastian Halenke

A long time ago, at the young age of 7 years, was the first ever time for me to go hiking in the Austrian Alps with my parents. Already at that time, I felt a great fascination for the beautiful natural environment of mountain regions. About one year later, I had my first ever climbing day. However, it was not a conventional way of starting to climb at all (normally people would rather participate in one of the many beginners courses offered in most of the German climbing gyms) – but no: At a little rock crag, close to my former home town of Giengen, there were three bloody beginners (my parents and myself) on their own, trying to put on their harnesses, to tie a correct “eight” and to use all the gear in a proper way, only with help of a DAV instruction book… but as you can see today, luckily everything went well that day! ;)

Since then, I have been “caught by the climbing virus” (as we would say in German) and together with my parents I spent my first climbing years often at the local crags but also quite a lot at rock areas abroad (France, Italy, Slovenia, …etc.) during vacations or weekend trips.

At the age of 12 years,kind of randomly, I took part in the “Baden-Wurttemberg-Youth-Cup”, where I discovered my passion for competitions. Afterwards it all went pretty quickly: In the following year (2008) I was taken into the provincial team (of Baden-Wurttemberg), and with a second place at the German Youth Championships, I managed to qualify for the Youth National Team. Consequently, I had my first international year in 2009 (at only 14) and since then I have travelled to many different places around the globe in order to compete.

Today, I have dedicated myself completely to competition climbing and practically my whole life is structured around them and their preparation. Furthermore, I am fully committed to sticking with this path for many more years, as the competitions are my personal self-realization – a way to give my abilities expression! And even more, in a wider sense, competing successfully in the long term determines constant inner growth and maturation.

Nevertheless, also climbing on the rocks still has a high ideal value for me. Beyond the challenge of pushing my limits on hard routes, even more I appreciate this very personal “getting back to the roots” – becoming one with life and the peaceful quietness of nature. Far away from all business, stress and pressure, I truly get to feel an inner and outer unity!


Highlights

 

Competitions (extract)

-       Overall winner German Youth Cup 2009, 2010

-       German Youth Champion 2009, 2010

-       German Champion (Adults) 2011, 2013

-       2nd place overall ranking European Youth Cup 2009

-       Overall winner European Youth Cup 2010

-       Vice Youth World Champion 2013

-       Youth World Champion 2009, 2010, 2012

-       9th place World Games, Cali, Columbia (2013)

-       7th place overall ranking Lead World Cup 2015, 2016

-       3rd place Lead European Championship, Chamonix, France (2015)

-       3rd place Lead World Cup, Chamonix, France (2015)

-       1st place Lead World Cup, Kranj, Slovenia (2016)

 

Rock (climbing, on-sight)

-       “La voie lactée” 8c/c+, La Balme, France

-       “Land der Hämmer” 8b+, Bachhexe, Zillertal, Austria

-       “Le cosmos par la porte de la minéralité“ 8b+, Grotte du Brotsch, Alsace, France

-      “Vortex“ 8b+, Grotte du Brotsch, Alsace, France

Rock (climbing, red point)

-       “Iron Dome” 9a, Tiefenbach, Allgäu, Germany, (5th try, first repetition)

-       “Andiamo“ 8c+, Rottachberg, Allgäu, Germany, (3rd try)

-       “Basica“ 8c/c+, Rottachberg, Allgäu, Germany, (3rd try)

-       “Revelation“ 8c/c+-, Elsass, France, (1st try after checking it out, 1st repetition)

-       “Transformer“ 8c, Malhalm, England, (1st try after checking it out, 3rd repetition)

-       “Wildeste Noraline“ 8c, Rockywand, Kochel, Germany, (2nd try after checking it out)

Rock (bouldering)

-       “Tekla im Stahlnetz des dr. Mabuse” FB 8b, Cresciano, Switzerland

-       “The Riddler” FB 8a+/8b, Magic Place, Zillertal, Austria

-       “Drischiebl” FB 8a+ (flash), Magic Place, Zillertal, Austria

-       “Franky Minchia” FB 8a+, (flash) Cresciano, Switzerland

-       “Deliverance” FB 8a+, Chironico, Switzerland

-       “Mr Bricolage” FB 8a+, Cresciano, Switzerland

-       “Born Lippy” FB 8a, Bowden Doors, England, (flash)

Was ich klettere:

-       Instinct VS

-       Instinct VSR

-       Instinct Lace

 

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