Staša Gejo

I pay the price of success with hard and bad days of training, unlucky days of competition - in the end I always get my present of unlimited joy!

I was born on 25.11.1997 and I encourage from a family which brought sport climbing to the city of Niš in the late 20th century. My father, Slobodan Gejo, is both sport and alpine climber. Mother, Vesna Pavlović, was successfully competing in sport climbing until 2006. and for her results on Balkan climbing competitions she is categorized as international rank athlete.
I have been training sport climbing since very young age and competing since 2004. in Niš’s sport climbing club P.A.E.K. “Niš” and I am Serbian national climbing team member.
My first medal was a silver on the International youth festival in Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria in 2006. I was there for fun because my parents were coaching the team from Niš and were somehow forced to take their 8-year-old child with them. I was second in both speed and lead. Parents decided it was time to take me to western Europe to gather more training and competition experience.
On my way to becoming a professional climber, I won all the prestigious Under 14 events such as Imst Color Cup, Arco Rock Junior and Petzen climbing trophy. At the age of 12 I climbed my first 8b Future land in my local craig Jelašnica. I was quite successful at the start of the IFSC youth events, but as I was growing up, my results in lead started dropping. Then I discovered a new passion for bouldering competitions. I gained a lot of power and skills, both physical and mental.
World Cup Bouldering Circuit made me addicted to the competition adrenaline.
As a contrast to chaotic feelings on stage, I enjoy lead climbing outdoors because the climbing itself lasts longer and I have to control my breathing, to relax my body with my mind, to control the grip. The time stops and my body and my mind become one with the rock.
Bouldering is like a vertical modern dance, whereas lead is more old-school, still has a slower but beautiful pace. Bouldering is dynamic, it is less controllable and very exciting. It is rarely predictable. It keeps me busy with exploring the limits of my skills and searching for new ones. I am focusing on fully using the potential of climbing shoes, primarily Drago, because they can help me move easily and more confidently. With them I can literally grab holds and volumes with my feet, with any part of the shoe!
It is a pleasure to be a member of the Scarpa family. Climbers have a great support from the crew and it is an honour to be amongst the first to test new products and releases!


Highlights

The World Games, Wroclaw (POL) 2017
1st place Bouldering; World Cup Meiringen (SUI) 2017 
4th place Bouldering; World Cup Munich (GER) 2015 and 2016
5th place Bouldering; World Youth Championship Arco (ITA) 2015
1st place Bouldering and Combined.
Best outdoor: boulder Opium 8A - Fontainebleau (FRA) and route Memento 8b+ Kotečnik (SLO)

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