Ueli Steck

Climbing and mountaineering is not just a sport. It is my lifestyle!

Born on October 4, 1976 in Emmental he first started to play ice hockey, but he stopped once he got in touch with climbing and mountaineering. He soon gains a name in the scene of climbers and alpinists not only because of  extraordinary talent but also because of his spirit to take high risks.

Ueli, a skilled carpenter and today professional mountain climber) emphasizes himself through his great self control. Although he likes to run with his head against a brick wall, he is capable of catching other people with his joy of life. He lives a philosophy which does not only encourage sportsmen to live their lives more intensively. For his extraordinary performances in alpinism he was nominated in 2005 for the „Piolet d’Or”His palmarès includes extremely difficult classic faces, some solo routes, ice- und mixed routes, sport routes, big walls, first ascents, i.e the West Face of the 7161m Pumori together with Ueli Bühler in 2001, Mount Dickey in Alaska and the North Face of the Eiger “The Young Spider” together with Stephan Siegrist). In 2003, after two attempts on the North Face of Jannu, Ueli redpoints “La Vida es Silbar” on the North Face of the Eiger, again with Stephan Siegrist. In 2004 he, together with Stephan Siegrist,  enchained all three North Faces of the Eiger, Mönch and the Jungfrau under 25 hours, soloed the Wendenstöcke routes Silberfinger and the Excalibur Pillar, and also completed a winter solo on the North Face of the Eiger, in addition to various other shorter solo ascents.

In springtime of 2005, Ueli Steck made the first spectacular solo ascent on the 6440m Cholatse North Face, topping out off the 1500m face in only 37 hours. Just two weeks later, he completed the first solo ascent of the East Face of the Tawoche (6505m). His attempt of the third peak, the Ama Dablam, was brought to an abrupt end. Unfortunately, bad conditions forced Ueli to quit at an altitude of 5900m. In early 2006, Ueli completed the second and this time solo ascent of his route “The Young Spider” on the Eiger. During 5 days, Ueli climbed through the Diretissima on the North Face. In June of the same year, Ueli summited with two companions the 7710m East Peak of Gasherbrum 2 after having completed the first ascent of Magic Line. In February 2007 he sets a new record climbing solo the classic Heckmair route in 3h54minutes. He broke the old record, which was held by Christoph Hainz since 2003. In April 2007 during his acclimatization time for his Annapurna project, he climbed solo the West Face of the 7161m Pumori in only 24 hours up and down. His attempt to climb the Annapurna south face (8091m) on a direct route was stopped all of a sudden. A stone hit him straight on his head. He had to interrupt the expedition immediately.

On February 13, 2008, almost a year to the day since he first broke the speed record for climbing the North Face of the Eiger, Ueli Steck sets a new fastest time soloing the face in 2hr 47min 33sec.

April 2008: while preparing for Annapurna Southface, Ueli Steck and his team mate Simon Anthamatten summit Tengkampoche climbing in a first ascent through Tenkampoche’s technical difficult and demanding northface (6500m), 2000m high, in Khumbu Valley, Nepal. They called this new route “Checkmate”. Difficulty: VI/85 degrees, ice M7+ / 6A0. For this Route Simone and Ueli won the Piolets  d`Or 2009. Ueli`s spirit of climbing is trying to move one. So 2009/2010 he finished the speed trilogy in the alps. He set up record times at the Grandes Jorasses on the Colton Macintyre Route by just climbing the face in 2h 21min. To progress on his achievements Ueli Steck decided to do it on-sight. He did the same also on Matterhorn Northface wich he climbed in 1h 56 min.

Ueli Steck doesn`t like to sit on the couch. In spring 2009 he visited Yosemite National Park. Just missing one 6c pitch on the first try he climbed the route Golden Gate ground up everything on-sight except this little 6c pitch. After enjoying the Californian sun it was time to go back to the real mountains. In summer and autumn of 2009 he summitted Gasherbrum II 8035 Meter and Makalu 8463 Meter. The following winter of 2010 he climbed the Droite northface in 2h and 08 minutes.


Highlights
  • October 2013 - Annapurna Solo, Southface
  • May 18, 2012: Everest no Oxygene 8848 Meter Summit
  • May 23, 2011: no Oxygene 8700 Meter 
  • May 5, 2011: Cho Oyu 8201 Meter
  • April 17, 2011: Shisha Pangma (8027 Meter) Solo, Southface in 10.5h
  • March 25, 2011: Cholatse Northface 6440 Meter
  • August 9, 2010: Dolomite-Trilogy: smallest Zinne / Preussturm SO-Wand „Cassin“ 275 Meter VII-, 45 minutes; small Zinne  Sud-Kante 'Gelbe Kante' 430 Meter VI, 58 minutes; big Zinne North-Face „Comici“ 550 Meter VII, 1h 05 min.
  • July 2010:  Ueli Steck honoured with the Karl Unterkircher Award 2010 which has been given away for the first time for his extraordinary polyvalent alpinistic performances.
  • June 2010: Free climb of the route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitain USA; speed ascent of the route Nose on El Capitain in 3h 45 min.; The  Route Triple Direct in 7 hours also on El Capitain.
  • February 19, 2010: Sol new speed record on the Droite northface in 2 hours and 8 minutes. Prior record holder was French exceptional alpinist Christophe Profit in 2 hours and 30 minutes.
  • September 24, 2009: Summit success for Ueli Steck on Makalu (8463m) on the normal route. Unfortunately he could not succeed over the originally planned route over the west pillar, due to the very difficult conditions on the route.
  • July 10, 2009: Ueli Steck summits Gasherbrum II (8035m) on the normal route. It is his first peak over 8000 meters. He needs 14 ½  hours from camp 2 at 6500 meters to summit (8035m) and back to camp 2.
  • May 2009: Ueli Steck free-climbs on sight “Golden Gate” on El Capitan (5.13b, 41 pitches) and fell on only a single pitch onsighting the rest of the climb.
  • April 25, 2009: Ueli Steck and Simon Anthamatten are hounoured with the  „Piolets d’Or 2009“ for their first ascent in the alpine style of Tengkampoche Northface (6500m), Khumbu Valley, Nepal in April 2008.
  • January 13, 2009: Ueli Steck needs 1 hours and 56 minutes to climb the Schmid route on the Matterhorn. He finishes his long achieved project, to climb all three big northfaces in the Alps (Eigernorthface, Grandes Jorasses and Matterhorn) in record times and solo.
  • December 28, 2008: Speed record on the Grandes Jorasses. Ueli Steck climbs the Colton-Macintyre route via the Alexis variant in 2 hours and 21 minutes.
  • September 26, 2008: Ueli Steck und Simon Anthamatten are honoured with the  'Prix Courage 2008' for their courage and unselfish rescue action at the Annapurna on May 2008. They didn’t hesitate and helped two comrades in need.
  • 29/30 August 2008: First freeclimb of the new route 'Paciencia', the most difficult sportsclimbing route in the Eiger Northface. Length 900m, 27 pitches, difficulty 8a
  • May 30, 2008: Ueli Steck was honoured with the 'Eiger Award'. This award has been given away fort he first time.
  • April 2008: while preparing for Annapurna Southface, Ueli Steck and his team mate Simon Anthamatten summit Tengkampoche climbing in a first ascent through Tenkampoche’s technical difficult and demanding northface (6500m), 2000m high, in Khumbu Valley, Nepal. They called this new route “Checkmate”. Difficulty: VI/85 degrees, ice M7+ / 6A0.
  • February 13, 2008: almost a year to the day since he first broke the speed record for climbing the North Face of the Eiger, Ueli Steck sets a new fastest time soloing the face in 2hr 47min 33sec.
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Speed Soloing the Ginat on the Droites
Speed Soloing the Ginat on the Droites
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