Doerte Pietron

I am searching for intensity; a goal that gives me the motivation to surpass myself

In life I am always searching for intensity; a goal that gives me the motivation to surpass myself; life in a highly concentrated form. All this I have been able to find in the mountains.

I grew up far from the mountains, in Heidelberg, but as a kid I visited the Alps often to ski and to hike, eventually doing easy mountaineering peaks. It was not the last year in high school that I discovered climbing and as soon as that happened there was no stopping. 


(AI=alpine ice, M=mixed, MI=mushroom ice)

  • Cerro Torre West face "Ragni-Route", first female and German ascent of the route, 1500m AI5+ M4 MI6 (December 2008).
  • Cerro Torre "Compressor Route", first woman to climb Cerro Torre twice, 1200m 6a A2 AI3 (November2010).
  • Cerro Fitz Roy north west pillar "Afanassieff", first all female ascent of the route and second all female ascent of the mountain,1700m 6c (February 2010).
  • Cerro Fitz Roy west pillar "Ensueño", second repeat and first female ascent of the route, 1600m 6c (February 2011).
  • Cerro Fitz Roy "Supercanaleta", 1500m 6a+ 85º (November 2010).
  • Cerro Fitz Roy North Pillar "Maté, Porro y Todo lo Demás", first all female ascent of the route, 900m 6c+ (December 2008).
  • Aguja Poincenot, Aguja Guillaumet, Aguja Innominata, etc.


  • Cima Ovest "Swiss Route" 7b, onsight.
  • Cima Piccola "Gelbe Mauer" 7b+, onsight. - "Ötzi trifft Yeti" 7b, onsight.
  • Cima Grande "Hasse-Brandler" 7a+. - "ISO 2000" 7a+, onsight.
  • Rotwand "Moulin Rouge" 7b+, onsight.
  • Tofana di Rozes "Da pazzo vecchio pazzo" 7b+, onsight. - "Sognando Aurora" 7b+, redpoint. "Paolo VI" 7b+, redpoint. - Compagni di Merenda (7b) onsight. - Bye Bye 1999 (7b) onsight.
  • Cima Scotoni "Skotonata Galaktika" 7c+, redpoint.
  • Marmolada "Specchio di Sara" 7c, redpoint.
  • Torre Venezia "Rondo Veneziano" 7b+, redpoint. 
  • Laston di Formin - Spiderman (7b+) redpoint. - Zoe (7b) onsight.


  • Les Droites north face "Ginat" (1000m WI5 M4). - "Tournier Pfeiler direkt" (1300m 6a WI4).
  • Eiger north east face "Lauper Route" (1800m rock IV 70°).
  • Mt. Blanc du Tacul "Supercouloir" (800m WI5+ 5c).
  • Mt. Blanc du Tacul "Modica-Noury" (500m WI5+ M5).
  • Aig. Pelerins "Carrington-Rouse"


  • India: Myar Valley, first ascent of P.5850m (600m 70° rock IV)
  • Africa: Mount Kenya (5200m) Southeast ridge (700m 5+), Kilimanjaro (5900m), Mount Meru, all with clients
  • Pakistan: Nayser Brakk 5200m (1000m, 6a, mixed) and K7 (6900m) attempt on the central pillar (13 pitches, 5.11,A3)
  • USA, Yosemite: El Capitan "The Nose" (1000m, 6c A1), Half Dome "Regular Northwest Face" (600m, 6c A0), Washington Column
  • "Astroman"(400m, 7a) and Leaning Tower "Wet Denim Daydream" (500m, 6a, A3)
  • Peru: Nevado Pisco 5700m, Nevado Chopicalqui 6350m and Nevado Tocllaraju 6030m, 2001.


  • Redpoint to 8a+, Onsight to 7c.


  • Numerous classics in the Alps up to WI6, for example "Thron" in Averstal; Blue Magic, Arbonium, Crack Baby... in Kandersteg, etc.