Luisa Iovane

With Heinz I experienced the birth and the evolution of sport climbing, on the cliffs of Arco and of Val San Nicolò... Since 1984 I devoted all of my time to sport climbing.

I was born in Venice, next to the sea, but I was always more attracted by the mountains than by the beach.

When I was 14 climbing became a fundamental part of my life. I went out with different partners, and if I didn't find anybody, I climbed solo, as on the Via Irma on the Ciavazes, then valued 6°/A1.

I was 17 when I met Heinz Mariacher, since then my exclusive partner in the mountains and in life. After some first repetitions, like the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sasso della Croce and the Via del Pesce (Fish) in Marmolada, I have participated in the opening of about twenty new ascents: on the Torre Trieste, on the Sass Pordoi, on the Sasso della Croce and about ten of them on our favorite wall, the south face of the Marmolada, such as Modern Times and Abrakadabra. After a few trips to far away mountains, from the walls of Yosemite to those of Hoggar and Pamir, we realized that it was hard to find anything better than the Dolomites, so we settled down there. 

With Heinz I experienced the birth and the evolution of sport climbing, on the cliffs of Arco and of Val San Nicolò. We also climbed a lot on the crags of Lumignano, situated very favorably near to Padua and the university where I studied geology.

Between 1982 and 1984 our activity included free climbing of extreme classic Dolomite routes, climbing in Verdon, Buoux and Arco. 

Since 1984 I devoted all of my time to sport climbing. Finger strength, coordination and flexibility had allowed me to reach 7c and in 1986 I did my first 8a routes.

In 1985 I took part to the first climbing competition ever, Sport Roccia, in Bardonecchia, where I got second, and I have continued with the competitions until 2006, when I still reached a second place in the Italian Championship. Till now I am the only Italian girl to have won a Climbing World Cup event. The direct and honest comparison with the best girls of the moment always motivated me, and my methodic and constant training was justified. To tell the truth, also now that I don't compete anymore, I still train a lot, to be able to enjoy the hard routes on our home crags. 


National competitions
  • Eight times Italian Champion, nine times second. 
  • Four victories of the Coppa Italia, with 46 first places and 42 placements on the podium.
International competitions
  • 129 events (World Cups, European and World Campionships, Master (16 Rock Master of Arco)
  • Results: 3 gold medals, 25 placements on the podium, 47 times among the first six, 84 times among the first ten, 100 times among the first 15.
  • 1985 - 2° Bardonecchia.
  • 1987 - 2° in the first Arco Rock Master 
  • 1988 - 5° Master Paris-Bercy, 3° Bardonecchia, 2° Nimes, 4°Rock Master.
  • 1989 - 2° in the general ranking of the World Cup 1989, 2° Grenoble, 2° Marseille, 3° WC La Riba (Spa), 3° WC Bardonecchia, 5° WC Snowbird (USA), 7° Arco Rock Master, 4° WC Bulgaria, 2° Nürnberg, 1° WC Yalta, 2° WC Lione, 1° International Master Master Köln.
  • 1990 - 3° Briançon, 5° WC Vienna, 1° International Open of Aussois, 4° WC La Riba, 2° Open Serre Chevalier, 2° WC Madonna di Campiglio, 7° WC Berkeley, 3° Arco Rock Master, 5° WC Lione, 5° WC Barcellona, 5° in the general ranking of the World Cup 1990. 
  • 1991 - 6° WC Vienna, 5° WC La Riba, 5° Master of Maurienne, 3° WC Clusone, 4° Arco Rock Master , 8° WC Innsbruck, 9° World Championship Francfurt , 8° WC Tokio, 6° WC Nürnberg, 3° Master in Lausanne, 7° WC Birmingham, 5° in the general ranking of the World Cup 1991.
  • 1992- 6° Master di Chambery , 5° WC Zürich, 2° Master di Kranj, 3° Open di Serre Chevalier, 2° Master d'Aussois, 7°  Arco Rock Master, 6° WC Nürnberg, 8° WC Sankt Pölten, 7° WC Laval, 6° in the general ranking of the World Cup 1992.
  • 1993 - 8° WC Frankfurt, 7° World Championship Innsbruck, 7° WC Zurigo, 3° Adventure Olympic Games in the Pirenees, 8° Master in Irland, 8° Arco Rock Master, 8° WC Laval and 8° in the general ranking of the World Cup 1993.
  • 1994 - 8° WC Villach (Austria), 2° Open Serre Chevalier, 6° Open Boulder Argentiere, 7° Arco Rock Master.
  • 1995 - 8° WC Frankfurt, 8° Arco Rock Master.
  • 1996 - 8° Open Serre Chevalier, 8° Arco Rock Master, 9° WC Graz. 1997 8° World Championship Paris, 9° Open Serre Chevalier, 9° WC Kranj. 
  • 1998 - 9° European Championship Nürnberg, 7° Serre Chevalier, 5° WC Courmajeur, 8° Arco Rock Master, 10° WC Milano, 5° in the general ranking of the World Cup 1998.
  • 1999 - 10° WC Besançon, 6° Arco Rock Master, 9° WC Kranj.
  • 2000 - 9° Arco Rock Master, 10° European Championship Munich.
  • 2001 - 10° Arco Rock Master, 19° WC Lecco
  • 2002 - 9° WC Bolzano, 12° Arco Rock Master, 20° WC Imst
  • 2003 - 17° WC Rovereto, 18° WC Lecco, 20° WC Imst
Luisa su Strada Privata
Strada Privata 8a San Nicolò
Staying alive
Staying alive San Nicolò
Via col vento San Nicolò
Via col vento San Nicolò