Marco Confortola

I was born on 22nd of May 1971. Elena, my mother, made her utmost in order to make me be Gemini and she succeeded in this. As all Gemini, I have a rich, warm and complicated character.  My mother, Elena, and my father, Alfonso, were very important in my life: they allowed me to grow up in a paradise, my dear Valfurva,  they taught to me, my brother Luigi and my two sisters Roberta and Maria Adele, to love simple things. Nowadays I still surprise myself when I see a sunset or get excited when I share with friends and customers the pleasure of climbing, towards the sky.

My father transmitted his fondness for the mountain to me:  I discovered it on me, unknowingly, as you discover the real love for a person of which you cannot live without. When I was six I worked as shepherd during the summer period and I remember that I watched surprised the big mountains  above me: my curiosity pushed me  higher and higher.

I have many hobbies: I love motors and speed. Everything with an engine bewitch me, from the scraper to the motorbikes, which I like to ride in the mountain roads: this is the reason why I studied mechanics at school.

When I was 19, I decided to live in the mountain and therefore I trained to be Alpine Guide and Ski Istructor. My family encouraged my decision and the people of the CAI Valfurla association always supported me (first of all President Luciano Bertolina) who always help young alpinists as I try to do now.

I remember my first client: his name was Giovanni Scandolara, from Brescia, who I guided to the top of the mountain San Matteo the Easter Day (1990): I remember him perfectly. In those years, the guides of Valfurla helped me a lot. Since then my life is indissolubly linked to the mountain.

  • 2004 – Monte Everest 8848 mt. versante nord
  • 2005 – Shishsa Pangma (cima centrale 8017 mt.)
  • 2006 – Shsisha Pangma (cima principale 8027 mt.)
  • 2006 – Annapurna 8091mt. versante nord
  • 2007 – Cho Oyu 8200 mt. (salita veloce campo base cima-campo base 26 ore)
  • 2007 – Broad Peak mt. 8047
  • 2008 – K2 via Sperone Abruzzi. 
  • 2012 – Manaslu
  • 2013 – Lhotse 8.516 m