Nicolas Favresse

For me challenging myself on a climb is just a way to get connected with nature. Climbing brings me to beautiful places, it inspires me to push my limits in climbing but also in music which both brings me a unique feeling of connection

photo: Ben Ditto photo: Olivier Favresse photo: Olivier Favresse photo: Ben Ditto

Wether it is a massive big wall in an alpine environement or 2 moves on a small but tricky boulder or a tune on his guitar, Nico just loves the rock in all its forms.
While on summer vacations with his familly, as a teenager, Nico and his brothers favorite activity was to explore caves along the mediteranean coast. In order to get from one cave to another without swimming, they had to climb above the sea. Soon enough Nico and his bothers traded caving for their new favorite game, deep water soloing.
After attending the university of Freyr (the most important Belgian crag) where he learned and refined his technique on old school, low angle, sandbagged climbs, his world of climbing opened much wider when Nico and Sean Villanueva went to Yosemite. There he discovered his true call : trad, big wall climbing and playing music on big walls.
Since then Nico has been on a mission travelling around the world looking for his Holly Grail : Virgin Big walls!
"For me challenging myself on a climb is just a way to get connected with nature. Climbing brings me to beautiful places, it inspire me to push my limits in climbing but also in music which brings me a unique feeling of connection”


Big walls

2004 Free ascents of Freerider El Capitan, Yosemite, California

2005 First ascent of L’appat (5.13+ R), Falls Wall, Yosemite, California

2006 Lost in Translation (5.12+), El Capitan, Yosemite, California

2007 First ascent of Ledgeway to Heaven (5.12+) 1200m , Nafees Cap, and Badal (5-12+) on the west pillar of K7, Charakusa Valley, Pakistan

2008 First ascents of The Secret Passage (5.13c)

2008 First free ascent of the East Face of the Central Tower of Torres Del Paine, via the South African Route, (5.12+) 1200m Patagonia

2009 Ascent of Silbergeier (8b), Ratikon, Switzerland

2009 The Belgarian, 800m 8a A0, Mont Asgard, Baffin Island

2010 First free ascent of Devil’s Brew (5.12+) 850m , Impossible Wall, Upernavick area, Greenland + 5 other new climbs opened in alpine style

2011Free Ascent of Orbayu (8b+/c), Picos de Europa, Spain

2011 Free ascent of Salathé Wall,Yosemte, California

2011 First free ascent in a single push of a combination of Royal Flush and El corazon, 7b, 1300m on the East face of Fitz Roy, Patagonia

2012 First free ascent of Apichavai (8a+), 700m Tuyuren Waterfall Wall, Amuri Tepui, Venezuela

2013 First free ascent of the south Pillar of Kizil Asker 1500m 5-12+ ca 5848m, China

2016 First free ascent of “cocnut connection” 5-12+ 1300m, great sail Peak, Stewart valley, Baffin Island + 6 other big walls opened in alpine style

2017 First free Ascent of El regalo de Mwono, 1200m 8a, East face of Central Tower, Torres del paine, Patagonia


Trad :

2008 Second ascent of Cobra Crack (5.14), Squamish, British Columbia, Canada

2013 First ascent of The Recovery Drink (5.14+), Jossingfjord, Norway

2015 First trad Ascent of Ganesh 5.14 in Badami, India


Sport :

2003 Estado critico 9a,

2010 La reina Mora8c+/9a,

2012 Speed with extension 9a,

2013 Vacounamatata 8c+/9a,

2017 “du vieux dans du neuf" 9a



2004 Yosemite experience

2005 Patagonia dreams

2007 Pakistan project

2008 Asgard Jamming

2010 Vertical sailing

2012 Venezuela jungle jam

2013 China jam

2014 “ Adventures of the dodo” and Dodo’s delight

2016 “coconut connection”

2017 “Notes of the wall” and “let it flow”


Awards : Golden Piton 2009, Piolet d’or 2010, Karl Unterkircher award 2012